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Food related musings

Canteen @ The Market, Blackrock, Dublin

24/2/2015

 
There is something about this charming restaurant, stuck at the back of the old Blackrock Market, that is instantly likeable. From the moment you arrive there is a sense of warmth and hospitality. In this unassuming dining room, Chef James Sheridan, who runs the restaurant with with wife, is serving up food from a seasonal menu that changes regularly. 

The food we ate was quite good too and demonstrated some decent cookery. A simple dish of nicely cooked scallops with apple and endive was nicely balanced with the right acidity. The best dish was one of cod, hazelnut and Jerusalem artichoke. It was well textured, the cod was perfectly cooked, with an excellent flavour. The main was wigeon, a wild duck with a milder flavour than mallard, that you don't see a lot of on menus. The cooking of the bird was good, if a little bit inconsistent, but the red cabbage was a little bit strong for it. It came with parsley root, which can easily become flavourless and soggy in the wrong hands, but it was very nice. 

The dessert, despite being tasty, gave the feeling that it was a bit of an afterthought. A glass with clementine jelly in the bottom, with some segments of clementine and shortbread and an espuma of chocolate on top. It gave the sense of something concocted because it could be made in advance and easily put together during service. 

Value wise, €42 isn't bad for this food, but the small selection of wines are expensive for their quality.

The restaurant has a sort of supper club feel to it, with a real sense of community and 'dinner with friends' to it. It is nice to see a young couple open a restaurant where they run it together, can cook good, simple, seasonal food and there is a feeling of enjoyment coming from the tiny kitchen right through to the small dining room. In a city where restaurants are opening with a theme or a way to make money, Canteen @ Market is a breath of fresh air, for its humility, humbleness and simplicity. 

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