The Greenhouse, on Dublin’s Dawson Street, is a restaurant that has both delighted and frustrated us on each visit since it opened in 2012. The food at times could be excellent and when the dishes worked they were first-rate. But too often they were let down by over complication and small errors. When we look back at previous meals we remember a dish of fantastic foie gras royale, a very accomplished serving of scallops, horseradish snow and wild garlic and a beautifully light passion fruit soufflé. But we also recall some over seasoning, tough meat and dishes that gave the impression of a chef trying just a bit too hard and over emphasising technique rather than substance and flavour on the plate.
We would leave the restaurant a bit perplexed, knowing that a clearly talented chef, Mickael Viljanen, didn't deliver on each course. But a few weeks ago, on our latest outing to The Greenhouse, we had by far the best meal we have had there.
The meal started off with the sophisticated and elegant foie gras royale dish, served with apple and horseradish. This dish has been a mainstay on the menu since opening and with good reason. This was followed by a course of courgette flower stuffed with a rich and deep chicken and smoked eel mouse with buttermilk which was warming and delightful. The best dish of the night was perfectly cooked venison complimented with autumnal flavours of beetroot, celeriac and blackberries. The refined passionfruit soufflé, light and airy, finished off an excellent dinner.
This meal felt quite different than previous outings to The Greenhouse and it seems that there may have been a change of culinary style and approach. The dishes were less cluttered, more natural and, all in all, felt more restrained. Servings were coherent, with each component on the plate having a purpose. It did not feel at any point like we were trying to be dazzled with technique and process and most importantly there were no seasoning, portioning or any cookery errors to be seen. This time it felt that the meal did justice to the obvious talents of the chef.
The service was polished, knowledgeable and friendly and the dining room seemed more spacious and comfortable than previous meals, maybe the table spacing has been increased. €75 for a five course is on the pricey side, but the €40 for well matching wines is good value.
The Greenhouse provided us with a good dining experience, living up to the promise we always felt it had, but never quite delivered, and this time we left content, happy and looking forward to returning for another meal of this quality.
We would leave the restaurant a bit perplexed, knowing that a clearly talented chef, Mickael Viljanen, didn't deliver on each course. But a few weeks ago, on our latest outing to The Greenhouse, we had by far the best meal we have had there.
The meal started off with the sophisticated and elegant foie gras royale dish, served with apple and horseradish. This dish has been a mainstay on the menu since opening and with good reason. This was followed by a course of courgette flower stuffed with a rich and deep chicken and smoked eel mouse with buttermilk which was warming and delightful. The best dish of the night was perfectly cooked venison complimented with autumnal flavours of beetroot, celeriac and blackberries. The refined passionfruit soufflé, light and airy, finished off an excellent dinner.
This meal felt quite different than previous outings to The Greenhouse and it seems that there may have been a change of culinary style and approach. The dishes were less cluttered, more natural and, all in all, felt more restrained. Servings were coherent, with each component on the plate having a purpose. It did not feel at any point like we were trying to be dazzled with technique and process and most importantly there were no seasoning, portioning or any cookery errors to be seen. This time it felt that the meal did justice to the obvious talents of the chef.
The service was polished, knowledgeable and friendly and the dining room seemed more spacious and comfortable than previous meals, maybe the table spacing has been increased. €75 for a five course is on the pricey side, but the €40 for well matching wines is good value.
The Greenhouse provided us with a good dining experience, living up to the promise we always felt it had, but never quite delivered, and this time we left content, happy and looking forward to returning for another meal of this quality.
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