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Food related musings

The 2014 Greedies

22/12/2014

 
Introducing our first annual awards - The Greedies. This is our chance to recognise some of the best and most memorable restaurants and meals we have had in 2014.

Ireland

Best Service: The Cliffhouse, Ardmore, Waterford
A few candidates for this one. Mulberry Garden and Thornton's stand out as good, knowledgeable and friendly service, but The Cliffhouse service could compete would some of the best service we have had in restaurants around the world.

Best Value: Mulberry Garden, Dublin
There is still some good value out there. The lunch menu in Patrick Guilbauds is one of the best values meals around, but Mulberry Garden is really great value. Classy food on a menu that changes weekly is a great price at €42 for 3 courses or €60 for 6. 

Best Wine: Saison, Dublin
Saison's wine pairing with the tasting menu was of high quality and very good value for the standard of wines offered. 

Best Newcomer: Amuse, Dublin
A couple of restaurants come to mind. Brioche in Ranelagh is a very nice new restaurant and we are looking forward to returning. Amuse showed a lot potential and is doing something interesting and is our choice for the best newcomer. 

Best Meal: Thorntons (Tasting Menu, May), Dublin
The tasting menu in Thornton's Restaurant last spring was our best meal in Ireland of 2014. It was imaginative, very well executed and showed Kevin Thornton at his best.

Best Dish: Saltee Island and Bere Island Scallop, Thornton's, Dublin
Raw and untouched scallops from Saltee Island, served with beetroot and apple. Deceptively simple, each ingredient tastiest like it should in its purest form. The 2nd part of this dish was a perfectly cooked scallop from Bere Island served in rich shellfish veloute with sea urchin. Perfect! 

Best Chef: Kevin Thornton, Thornton's, Dublin
Our tasting menu in Thornton's Restaurant last spring showed Kevin Thornton at his best. Other chefs worth noting are Tom Doyle from Mulberry Garden, who is producing great food and going from strength to strength, while Graham Neville from Restaurant 41 is another to take note of.

Best Restaurant: Mulberry Garden, Dublin
Two restaurants contended this one. Thornton's on it day is a great restaurant and can be quite extraordinary, but Mulberry Garden is consistently serving top quality food, with a menu that constantly changes, it is great value and is a restaurant that is always exciting. For us, it is the restaurant we would go to if we could only have one last meal in Dublin.

World

Best Service: Noma, Copenhagen
There were several restaurants with top class service. In London, Hibiscus had the best service, but St John and The Hand And Flowers were also particularly good. The service in Noma was flawless though, friendly, fun, professional, engaging and knowledgeable.

Best Value: Lima Floral, London
Relae in Copenhagen was great value and was serving really top class food. St John in London was brilliant value for money also. But the best value was the lunch menu in Lima Floral. Less than £20 for really great food and a very reasonably priced wine list.

Best Wine: Hibiscus, London
One restaurant stands out and that was the wine pairings with the lunch menu in Hibiscus. Really top class wines that were well priced. The Sauternes was particularly note worthy.

Best Meal: Noma, Copenhagen (November Visit)
There isn't much to say, except that our meal in Noma in November was simply amazing. 

Best Dish:  Rhubarb root, Shrimp, Nasturium, Noma (November Visit)
There are several dishes from Noma that could win this prize. But the best dish from that meal was the Shrimp, Nasturum and beetroot root. It was perfection. From another restaurant in Copenhagen, Relae, a dish of trout, mushroom and chicken skin was also sublime and a dish we won't easily forget.

Best Chef: Rene Redzepi, Noma
Redzepi deserves the accolades he gets. He has changed the culinary landscape and his food and restaurant are remarkable.

Best Restaurant: Noma, Copenhagen
A bit of an obvious choice to give this to a restaurant that has won best restaurant in the world four times. But it is the best restaurant we have eaten in and fully deserves the acclaim.

The Best Restaurant In The World?

2/12/2014

 
Last January we ate in Noma for the first time, a restaurant that has been crowned best in the world four times. Our meal back then was excellent; very different, a little bit challenging, slightly overwhelming and extremely memorable. The moment we stepped outside the door we decided we needed to go back to try another season. Well this autumn we went back and this time the meal was even better, in fact, it was quite amazing.

Once in a generation or so there is a chef who completely changes the whole culinary industry; Escoffier, Bocuse, Adria to name a few, and most recently Rene Redzepi, the man behind Noma. Redzepi didn't set out to take on the world, his aim was just to do something different. He decided to explore his own doorstep to discover ingredients that he could use to help him find a taste, an identity and a representation of the Nordic region. This part of the world wasn't known for its abundance of ingredients, especially growing in nature - when we visited last January it was so cold and icy it was hard to imagine anything growing or surviving the winter. He didn't just discover these new ingredients and substitute them into a tarte tatin, or roll them in a ravioli, or any reinvention of a classic. Instead he also  wanted the interpretation to be new. Maybe more than any one chef in history Redzepi has transformed a whole region, one which has never been known for gastronomy, and given it a food culture whilst unearthing some great Nordic produce. Copenhagen alone is now littered with really high quality and exciting restaurants as a consequence of Noma's success, with some of their alumni responsible for some of the best.

Due to Noma's success the philosophy has travelled the world with chefs trying, and more often than not failing, to copy it. An ethos copied, but not understood, can sometimes be comically bad - around the world there has been chefs inappropriately throwing any foraged ingredients they can find all over dishes. This can be an unfortunate by-product of a hugely influential restaurant - after El Bulli there were chefs putting foams, airs, emulsions on everything they could find. But a lot of positives have come out of Noma's influence. Chefs are now thinking more about the sourcing of their ingredients, using local produce and exploring their own region. Also chefs are now dealing more with the producers instead of the middle man and that can only be positive. 

In a way Redzepi has been a victim of his own success and has to strive hard to stay ahead of the pack of very good chefs who are following in his footsteps and copying his methods. It is a constant battle to push innovation, keep developing new dishes and looking for new tastes. The food is constantly evolving and even looking back at previous Noma cookbooks you can see how the food has changed. To do this they must have to put with a lot of failed attempts and frustration, before getting the eureka moment of a complete dish.

Denmark isn't the obvious place to push boundaries, stand out from the herd and become the biggest restaurant in the world since El Bulli. Standing out, attention seeking or any shred of arrogance is not acceptable under Jante Law (social etiquette in which Scandinavians still adhere to, which basically states that 'you are nothing special'). But this mentality and outlook can be seen in a meal in Noma, as despite being the most sought after restaurant on the planet (they have thousands of people on the waiting list every day for a table), Noma still has humbleness and humility. The welcome is warm and there is a real appreciation that you have travelled to try their food. When the chefs ask did you like a dish they are not just seeking compliments, but instead seem genuinely interested and happy if you liked it. At times they appear unaware of the importance of the restaurant and what they are doing.

All this is irrelevant if the food they serve isn't absolutely delicious though and of course it is. This time we were better prepared and knew what was coming - the dishes come very fast at the beginning and can be slightly overwhelming on the first visit. Maybe what is most remarkable about what we ate in Noma was that there are highly skilled techniques on most dishes, but that isn't what you first notice as dishes are presented beautifully naturally and it is the taste that is the most striking. It is only after eating do you think about the techniques and processes that went into the dish. 

Sometimes it is hard to describe something you ate in a restaurant and get across just how good it was. There were times during this meal that while eating we looked at each other and words were not necessary as we both knew we were experiencing something special, something unique. When you love and are passionate about something, as we are with food, and you are experiencing the best it can make you emotional and we certainly felt that with some of the dishes on our meal.

The food manages at times to have a delicate, yet powerful taste in the same mouthful and the balance between the different elements is remarkable. There is also purity in the food, you never feel like you are being tricked, each dish tastes of what it is. Some of the excellent dishes on our meal were: beef tartare with ants; cucumber with a scallop fudge; white cabbage and samphire; sea urchin with crispy duck stock; milk and monkfish liver. However that list doesn't include the best dishes, the ones that had us shaking our head in wonder: burnt onion and walnut oil was sweet with a pure onion taste without the sharpness; shrimp, nasturtium with a broth made from rhubarb root was possibly the best dish of the meal, the rhubarb root nearly having a feint lemongrass taste; an egg yolk that had a wonderful texture served with potato; roast bone marrow that you roll in cabbage leaves was just luxuriously delightful. The sweet offerings were also great: an ice cream with crispy milk and gammel dansk (a Danish bitter) was superb; Aronia berries with söl was rich with a tea and slight tobacco taste.

The service was hospitable, friendly and professional with just the right level of formality. Copenhagen is an expensive city, but when you consider there are as many chefs as diners and the work that goes into the food then Noma is actually very well priced, although the wine menu is quite pricey. In fact they could increase the price of their dinner menu significantly and still easily fill every table. Some people say eating in Noma is a once in a lifetime experience, but we will be back, after all there are still two seasons to try.

We don't know how someone can say one restaurant is the best in the world, but if there is a better meal out there, if there is a restaurant developing and serving better dishes, then we will keep trying to find it, because it will need to be quite something to top this meal in Noma.

    Subjects

    All
    2014 Review
    Aimsir
    Albert Adria
    Amass
    Amuse
    Ananda
    Aniar
    Anthony Bourdain
    Arzak
    Barcelona
    Bodega 1900
    Brioche
    BROR
    Campagne
    Canteen @ The Market
    Casual Dining Dublin
    Chapter One
    Conor Dempsey
    Copenhagen
    Eipic
    El Celler De Can Roca
    ETTO
    Fera At Claridges
    Fergus Henderson
    Forest Avenue
    Formel B
    Hibiscus
    Indaco
    Kevin Thornton
    Kilkenny
    Lady Helen Restaurant
    L'Arpege
    Lasarte
    Le Chateaubriand
    Lecrivain
    Liath
    Lima Floral
    Loam
    Michelin
    Mount Juliet
    Mugaritz
    Mulberry Garden
    Noma
    No-Shows
    Osteria Francescana
    OX
    Patrick Guilbaud
    Pipero Al Rex
    Relae
    Relea
    Rene Redzepi
    Restaurant FortyOne
    Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
    Restaurant Manners
    Saison
    St. John Restaurant
    The Cliff House
    The Clove Club
    The Greedies 2014
    The Greedy Awards
    The Greenhouse
    The Hand & Flowers
    The Ledbury
    Thornton's Restaurant
    Tickets
    Tom Doyle
    Tom Kerridge
    Worlds 50 Best Restaurants

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